Re: Tali H500 Getting started. Read before your first flight

Discussion in 'Walkera TALI H500' started by glennsel, Apr 11, 2016.

  1. glennsel
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    glennsel New Member

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    As posted by bjr981s (moderator);

    The Calibration.

    You have to start on Level ground. Be behind Model.

    Initiate the Calibration and the lights will flicker.

    Lift Model

    Nose pointed forward roll forward in 90 degree increments. Pause at each 90 degree for 1 second.

    Nose pointed forward rotate on its yaw axis Clockwise in 90 degree increments. Pause at each 90 degree increment for 1 second.

    Nose pointed forward roll Counterclockwise in 90 degree increments. Pause at each 90 degree increment for 1 second.

    Nose pointed down rotate Counterclockwise in 90 degree increments. Pause at each 90 degree incumbent of 1 second.

    Place model back down on the level surface. The Lights must still be blinking after you place the model down. If they have stopped blinking before placing the model on the flat surface thecalibration timed out and has failed. You must start again.

    With the model flat on the ground the lights should then stop flashing. Use the Power button to stop the battery and remove it from the model.

    Power it up again.

    This is a very raw basic calibration. But enough to get you flying.

    First Flights.

    Power up model on a level surface.

    Slowly throttle up till the model either lifts level or starts to roll or pitch. If it rolls or pitches hold the throttle and correct with the elevator and aileron until it is level. Give it a bit more throttle and it should lift reasonable level while you correct with aileron and elevator. (Rolling or Pitching after a good calibration generally means a CG issue or a motor ESC issue)

    Once you get about 6 feet in the air. fly the model forward and walk behind it. Once you get to a good location to fly stand 6 feet behind the model fly it in a slow circle around you while you remain 6 feet behind. Execute this twice. Land model disarm motors power down remove battery.

    Power up agin and repeat for the full battery charge.

    Next battery. It should lift very stable, fly for 5 minutes in manual executing all manoeuvres. Land disarm motors power down remove battery and repeat for the full battery.

    GPS First Flights.

    Next battery. Find a good level location to fly that is clear all around. Power up, wait for at least 3 clear satellite blinks. >4 is preferable. It should fly in manual very stably fly to 6 to 12 feet and hover in manual. Switch to GPS. The model should hold position. Practice ascending and descending. The throttle response is totally different in GPS mode. It no longer controls prop speed directly. It only commands ascend and descend. Prop Speed is controlled by the FC.

    Make sure you know where the centre position is on the throttle. Set a centre position beep if you have a radio that supports this. You need to be centre throttle to switch back to Manual flight. If not in the centre the model will either ascend or fall rapidly when switching back. Get some practice switching back and forth.

    Keep a close eye out for the first few batteries on the Satellite blink count. Be prepared to switch back to manual if the blink count drops to below 3.

    The more you fly in manual mode the better the aircraft will fly.

    The Basic Facts.

    You can not calibrate the model indoors. (It is very unlikely the compass will calibrate.)
    You must calibrate successfully to fly in Manual mode. The compass is irrelevant but the IMU (Gyro and Accelerometers) must be calibrated.
    You must be clear of all magnetic objects to do a calibration of the compass. This includes not having a mobile phone in your pocket.
    The calibration needs to be far away from an metallic objects. e.g. cars etc.

    The model comprises of a 3 Axis MEMS Gyro +;
    The Gyro is calibrated in the calibration routine.
    It is reset at Power up / motor arm time. (Set as level) Must arm on level ground

    A 3 Axis MEMS Accelerometer +;
    The accelerometer is calibrated in the calibration routine.
    It is reset at Power up / motor arm time. (Set as level) Must arm on level ground.

    A Magnetic Compass +;
    The compass is calibrated in the calibration routine. (Raw Only)
    It requires re-calibration if you significantly charge locations. To recognise any localised magnetic anomalies.
    It continually calibrates while in manual flight mode to fine tune the calibration.
    The Compass is part of the GPS model. You should angle the direction of the GPS module, to the magnetic north deviation of true north at you flying location. This synchronises the GPS north with the Mag compass. This is obviously not done at the factory and only done by OCDers like myself. To get a max tune. (This is a standard process in the DJI install manuals for WooKong, A2 And Ace One Flight controllers.)

    The GPS +;

    The GPS has a battery backup installed and can perform a warm start (Battery changes)
    A cold start can take up to 10 minutes to effective determine location and lock satellites.
    Once initially locked a warm start (after a battery change) will be less than 2 minutes. (Don't get confused about when and where you get the number of satellite locks without considering warm and cold starts.)

    The GPS module is made up of three parts. The Compass, The GPS and the Antenna.

    Various releases of these 3 parts have existed on the Walkera model range sine GPSs were first installed. Don't always think that a latter version is actually better than a previous.

    I have seen a newer better GPS part but with newer poorer Antenna. (Current Scout models) Deliver poorer outcomes.

    The best combination of these parts is the Voyager 3 Combo. The first to support both Glonass and GPS. It can be recognised by the markings BE300 GPS and T 0010 Antenna.

    These has been available for about 10 Months. These have been Installed on the Voyager 3, and the X350 premium and the Runner 250 Advanced.

    They are a pin for Pin replacement for the Scout And Tali. Upgrading recommended.

    In the last couple off weeks walker have been shipping a new GPS module. Its still the Be300 GPS but the Antenna is a L 0010. I have not been able to tell what the transition from the T to L means.

    The GPS passes data to the flight controller relating to the quality of lock and the number of satellites it has used in the lock.
    The number of satellites in the lock does not relate directly to the quality of the lock.

    The Quality of the lock is determined by the satellites position in the sky. The Lock quality is exposed as HDOP (Horizontal) and VDOP (Vertical) values. Walker telemetry does not expose these values.

    Generally the more satellites in the lock the greater the chance that you have statutes in good orbital relative positions. But that cannot be guaranteed.

    So never fly GPS with Less that 3 Sat blinks (4+3) = 7

    The Flight Controller

    Its Walkera hardware and FW is based on the APM/ArduPilot open source UAV Platform.

    Flight Code | Dronecode

    Reading up on ArduPilot documentation will give you a good understanding of the Tali, Scout, Voyager and x350.

    As it is modified FW it is not 100% compatible and feature consistent. All members of Drone Code can modify the base.

    The Key important things to understand here are some basic factors.

    The FC is self learning and will continue to improve the flight quality constantly. It saves its leanings when the motors are disarmed and battery turned off.

    All the learnings and calibration are lost when you install a FW update. You need to go through the full calibration routine and self learning again.

    The FC will mark the Home Location for GPS Return to Home. If and when the GPS reports a >=7 sat Lock and the motors are being armed.

    If you intend to perform a GPS flight always wait for 3 Sat blinks from your model before arming the Motors.


    WHAT KIND OF CRAP IS THIS??
    $2000 for a copter that has to be flown for 3 full batteries with multiple power-downs in order for it to be even SLIGHTLY stable??
    I regret the day I ever decided to get this POS machine. I am only here trying to figure out how I can make this thing somewhat reliable so I can sell it and get a Typhoon H. At least Yuneec has customer support, unlike Walkera.
    Unstable, no GPS hold or auto-takeoff working despite ELEVEN satellite blinks, several flyaways, multiple machine induced crashes, bt2401 never has worked from new... need I go on?? (Did I mention NO SUPPORT??)

    WALKERA, GET YOUR S**T TOGETHER AND FIX THIS OR QUIT SELLING IT!


     
  2. Morningstar
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    Morningstar New Member

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    Thanks again for the help. Next I will be looking for a GOOD charger. I hope to charge the battery at less then 3 amps for at least the first 2 charges. Possibly at .5 if I can find a good charger. A nearby hobby shop says they have something suitable that I can grow with. I hope to see it this week. Sorry I didn't respond sooner. My son just came home for the weekend from the USCG. I hope to be following the directions you sent me in the next few days. Thanks again!
     
  3. bjr981s
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    bjr981s Moderator Staff Member

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    Charging them at the recommended 3 amps is .5C. These batteries have a very low C rating.

    Batteries need to be run in.

    So fly for only 5 minutes for the first 5 flights and recharge. That way you will get the best long term performance from your battery.

    Ignore all the adverse comments. They come from people who want instant gratification and don't bother to read the manuals and don't use good common sense.

    Cheers Brian

    p.s. When you say good. do you mean the best?

    The best is a Graupner EX-1400. With the attached DC power Supply.

    Polaron EX 1400W 8S 3" Color and Touch TFT (Black) | RC Charger | Graupner USA
    Polaron Power Supply 12V/25A | RC Power Supplies | Graupner USA

    Another very useful I have 3 of these. Is the RADIOLINK. HYBRID.

    It Does the main charge through the output cables the as it approaches full it balances by charging through the balance ports rather than drawing from the ports.

    It balance charges faster than any other charger I have used.

    And can recover batteries that have lost a lot of charge on a single cell that come from storage.

    Radiolink CP620 750W 30A Battery Charger Hybrid Balance Charger For RC Models
     

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