Binding issue after use of Mission Planner

Discussion in 'Walkera Scout X4' started by Jorgen, Apr 28, 2016.

  1. Jorgen
    Offline

    Jorgen New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2016
    Messages:
    4
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Ratings:
    +0 / 0
    My Walkera Scout X4 won't connect to my transmitter after I used Mission Planner to change a value of voltage. When I turn transmitter and quad on, the quad do as before: Blinking fast red, then slower and then after a minute it stops blinking. Meanwhile the transmitter keep buzzing. Should I reset the fixed ID? And if so, is there a guide to do that?
    Any help is highly appreciated!

     
  2. chase
    Offline

    chase Member

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2016
    Messages:
    150
    Likes Received:
    5
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Planet Earth
    Ratings:
    +6 / 0
    The light slowing down then going out as normal indicates your binding is complete.

    The tx continuing to vibrate... two possibilities.

    One, it's possible it's a real issue. One I read about before and there is a resolve.

    However,

    If you changed the warning voltage, and the battery is at or lower than what you changed it to, your tx continuing to vibrate is not an "issue", it's simply "warning" you according to your new setting that your battery is low.

    In that case, charge your battery, rebind, and all will be good again.

    For resetting the Fixed ID, there are instructions online in how to do this. Sorry I'm on a cell phone responding to you or I'd look it up and provide the link. Maybe someone else will jump in and do so, or you can just Google it.

    Same if you find the tx is not warning you by vibrating about the battery, but just continuing to vibrate. Google, F12E won't stop vibrating, I think that pulls up the thread in Google.

    With out more info, it's kinda hard to help you accurately.

    Hope that helped you some or at least pointed you in the right direction.

    - chase -
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2016
    • Like Like x 1
  3. Jorgen
    Offline

    Jorgen New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2016
    Messages:
    4
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Ratings:
    +0 / 0
    The first solution didn't work for me. I've charged the both the transmitter and the quad, and the problem is the same.
    I've looked but I can't find any proper guides on how to reset my fixed ID. I can only find guides on how to enable fixed ID. Do you know a specific link?
    And thanks for you help! I really appreciate it!
     
  4. chase
    Offline

    chase Member

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2016
    Messages:
    150
    Likes Received:
    5
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Planet Earth
    Ratings:
    +6 / 0
    Okay - batteries charged so it's not the battery warning.

    It did not do this prior to your changes to the parameter file in MP, correct?

    The red indicator light is indicating it's bound... but if you want to try resetting the fixed id... ok.

    It's in the manual for the tx, and I'll have to search the net for what was online... we're talking over the past several weeks working on mine, I ran into it. I'll have to find it again. When and if I do, I'll post a link.

    Until then, check in the manual under "Fixed ID" - I believe it not only tells you how to set it, but unset it to a fixed id. Almost positive it does, but check to be sure. I believe it's just a matter of rebinding normally then binding under Fixed ID again. I haven't done it, it's just what I recall from reading about it.

    There is a post/thread somewhere related to the issue of the tx not wanting to stop vibrating. He did find the solution. You might want to take a gander at that as well if resetting your fixed id didn't work to resolve it.

    Again you'll have to Google for it. Info can be sparse, I know, I've been going through the same working on mine.

    What ever you find as a resolve... please post what worked I'm your case so others that run into the issue will have something to go by.

    You're the main man now!

    - chase -

    Btw, what else did you change in the parameter file?

    A lot of what is online for parameter changes is old - be very careful with those changes. I had a near incident with one of those recommended changes... when they say at your own risk.. they mean it.

    We need 2016 recommendations since the Walkera firmware and hardware changes.

    Again, most of those recommended changes online are old. You have to check and see what hardware and what firmware you have in everything before making any changes to see if they pertain to your bird. Especially the firmware...

    Just saying...
     
    Last edited: May 1, 2016
  5. Jorgen
    Offline

    Jorgen New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2016
    Messages:
    4
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Ratings:
    +0 / 0
    No, before I changed my params in MP it just vibrated for 30 sek in the binding proces.
    I have found the manual and how to reset my fixed ID but to be honest, I think it's a little unnecessary to reset my fixed ID since my transmitter and scout is perfectly connected. I can't see what it would solve. According to the manual, I'll have to open up my scout to get to the 'output terminal of BATT'-port. I'm not sure it's worth the effort.
    I'll definitely look after that thread you mentioned!

    Picture of the cancelation proces: [​IMG]
     
  6. Jorgen
    Offline

    Jorgen New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2016
    Messages:
    4
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Ratings:
    +0 / 0
    In MP i changed the BATT_VOLT_MULT from '4.(something)' to 5.188869. My transmitter warned me of low voltage on the scout too early, and one told me that my BATT_VOLT_MULT value should be changed to the new value.
     
  7. chase
    Offline

    chase Member

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2016
    Messages:
    150
    Likes Received:
    5
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Planet Earth
    Ratings:
    +6 / 0
    Okay, I know which change you were making. Saw that one. But mine didn't need it. I just changed the .4 to .6 in my TX.

    Which TX are we talking about? Which firmware in your gear? TX and Scout. MP version?

    And yup, saw that too just now searching how to do it, using the binding plug to clear the reciever. Then rebind using fixed id.

    But I did read something else on if fixed id didn't work or failed or something along those lines... they didn't open up the bird to do it from what I remember. I'll Google search more...

    I'll look for that post on the tx vibrating...

    Btw - Opening up the Scout isn't all that. It's pretty easy. Just a bunch of screws.

    There are 3 different screw types. The 4 hex head at the very front of each motor are shorter than the rest of the hex heads. Keep those separated from the rest so you don't mix them up.

    There's two Phillips head screws #0, they're on each side of the battery pack opening at the rear of the bird. You'll look down a long skinny hole, that's were they are. You'll need a long shaft skinny #0 Phillips driver to reach down in there. Magnetic tip ideal for this.

    I got lucky and had one on hand as all my really good mini /jewlers drivers were either too short or too fat to fit the hole. Check those two first to make sure you can undo them... otherwise you're wasting your time till you get one that will go into the hole and reach down to where the screw heads are.

    (Little tip for you there)

    The body has some clip/tabs to hold it together, but it separates easily. Don't just pull it apart or you'll break the tabs off. Gently squeeze either the lower or upper half of the body, I can't remember which at the moment, you can tell which because it will pretty much separate in hand when you do it right. Start at the battery end and work your way around till it's all separated. I suppose it doesn't make a real difference which end you start at, that's what I did...

    There's wires to the gps so be mindful of them when separating the two halfs. Lift the upper half of the body till the arms clear the motor shafts, rotate the body either clockwise or counter clockwise till the arms of the upper clear the lower body arms. Then you can tilt the upper body and see inside more easily.

    Three plugs to undo that go to the gps and it's apart in two sections, upper and lower body halves.

    Once you do it, it's less daunting. Till then you're like - "do I really want to do this?"

    Really, it's nothing. And everything is there once opened.

    Just remember to mark which plug goes where before you remove them. They can be a little tricky to get back in, they're tiny.. Just take your time.. don't force anything. They pop right in once lined up.

    That's if you decide to go into her, now or in the future. You might want to just to see without unplugging anything, which hardware you have.

    Ten minutes and it's open. Five and it's closed back up... easy peasy.
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2016
  8. chase
    Offline

    chase Member

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2016
    Messages:
    150
    Likes Received:
    5
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Planet Earth
    Ratings:
    +6 / 0
    Your pic didn't show, you might want to edit it back it in your post.

    Let me ask you this.

    It's indicating it's bound. But have you tested it to be sure it is?

    By way of testing the bind I mean look in Sensor view, arm the motors and give them a spin (props off of course)... gimbal controls work if you have one, etc, etc.

    I did find someone else that posted he was having the vibration issue. He edited in that after 7 or 8 flights it just stopped on it's own...

    The only other thing I could suggest at this moment. And I know it's a pain. Re connect to MP, change the setting back to default and see if the vibration acts normally again. If it does, you know it's that setting. Or that when you made the change, something is out of sync between the Scout and the tx when the value was changed.

    Maybe the bird is seeing the voltage as one thing, the tx another. Just guessing here at this point.

    But try changing it back, just to check. See what happens.

    Other than that, you could pm Brian (the mod here) and see if he might know what's up. He's got a whole bunch of Scout X4's and other Walkera birds... Maybe he's run into this before and can help you out.

    I'm pretty much a newb myself to the Scout, the F12E, etc. And the more elaborate gear involved.

    He can walk you through most anything...

    Hope I helped some,

    - chase -
     
    Last edited: May 1, 2016
  9. bjr981s
    Offline

    bjr981s Moderator Staff Member

    Top Poster Of Month

    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2015
    Messages:
    5,374
    Likes Received:
    354
    Trophy Points:
    83
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    Ratings:
    +456 / 14
    1) You have to remove the body.
    2) You have to move the battery connector from the RX and put it in another socket on the RX.
    3) You have to insert the bind plug that came with the model into the RX battery input.
    4) Power up the model.
    5) Bind with the TX.
    6) Remove the bind plug and return battery lead to its socket.
    7) Fixed ID is now reset.

    With some RXs step 5 is not required.

    Cheers
     
  10. bjr981s
    Offline

    bjr981s Moderator Staff Member

    Top Poster Of Month

    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2015
    Messages:
    5,374
    Likes Received:
    354
    Trophy Points:
    83
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    Ratings:
    +456 / 14
    This was bad advice. This settings is identical for every scout built. It has to been calculated from a reference battery voltage in the factory.

    The reason the setting exists is because you can build you own drone with a APM based FC and then you would need to do your own factory calibration.

    Again, this setting is to calibrate the Voltmeter in the FC to a reference voltage. Some people think its a mechanism to calibrate your scouts battery. Its not. If you think about out what happens if you have 3+ battery packs like me you can see the silliness of this.

    Be very careful about anything you read on the net about changing settings in anything. Don't do it unless you totally trust the source. And then still don't do it unless its the last resort to life and death of your drone.

    Now here is some basic info.

    The settings in Mission planner relate to the scout itself. It has nothing to do with the alarm settings in the TX or the buzzer / vibrator in the radio.

    The battery settings in MP relate to what the FC will do if it gets a low battery indication. Like Auto RTH or Autoland. It does not generate any alarms.

    In the Scout RX there is a backchannel 2.4Ghz signal that transmits Telemetry. The telemetry comes from the RX, FC and the GPS / Compass.

    The battery information that comes from the FC to the RX is related to the voltage setting in MP the actual factory calibrated battery voltage.

    So some have found that you can tweak a little bit of extra flight time if you adjust this setting. This is absolutely dangerous.

    People that have done this have checked the voltage value with the voltage on the battery after they have landed.

    This voltage will always read high as it a non load voltage. Under load, in flight the voltage reading is correct. Depending on the number of cells it can be .2V per cell lower than static. So thats 6 x .2 = 1.2V lower than static.

    In the RX you can set battery level warnings that are being received. If this is set you will get a vibration alarm if the voltage drops below the setting.

    If your setting is to high it will alarm with a fully charged battery.

    Some basic info on Electrics.

    Voltage is often called potential because it can potentially deliver current.

    Voltage does not keep you model in the air, Current through the motors does.

    A battery has a specific C rating. Defining the absolute maximum current that can be delivered from the battery. It is the C rating x its mah rating.

    So a 2200mah 20C battery (Runner 250 battery) can deliver 44 amps if fully charged. The Scout battery as far as I know has an unknown C rating as its a smart battery pack and unpublished.

    The bottom line here is that the voltage is only an indicator as the battery discharges the remaining mah x the c rating will dictate how much current it can deliver to the motors.

    People assume that the battery charged % is like a car fuel tank. You get the same power output all the way to empty. Its not. The battery Voltage has potential to deliver current, its ability relates to state of charge and C rating.

    A fully charged LiPo battery has 4.2V per cell. Its totally flat at 3.3V so half flat is 3.75V

    So using the runner battery as an example at 3.75 x 3 = 11.25V at this voltage the battery can only deliver 22 amps to the motors max from 44 at fully charged.

    The is a reason that manufacturers like Walkera have set their low battery warnings to the value they do.

    This is the same reason that those that chose to ignore or change those settings are the same ones that complain that Walkera models are rubbish. They get flyways on GPS version models and they get sudden falls from the sky. Thats what happens when the batteries cannot deliver enough current to run the motors.

    So if you were designing a drone you would use a battery and ESC and motor that is matched for the intended performance.

    The ESC would be slightly higher (e.g. 25A) than the Motors 20A and the battery would have a C rating that delivers 20A at 3.7V per cell.

    Then the model / drone will fly consistently until the batteries get to the alarm setting and then you have to land immediately as the motors can no longer function at full load.

    The moment you go below the 3.7-3.8V per cell you get closer to the point where the motors will no longer spin. Or 1 motor will suck all the power and the other motors stop.

    What complicates this is in multicell Lipo batteries like the Scout you can get one cell discharging faster than another. So its like the weakest link in a chain. All the current must flow through all the cells. The low cell restricts how much current the higher charged cells can deliver.


    Long Winded I know But it Needs documenting. I will; cut and paste to a Sticky at some time but for now its just for you. :)
     
    • Like Like x 1

Share This Page